DIY – Photo Backdrop

Over the passed few months i have been looking at all the options for photography Portrait backdrops. Like most things there are lots of options and range in price.

As i like to try things out before spending an arm and a leg on kit, i searched for tips and ideas of DIY backdrops. i found a brief note on a forum about using a roller blind as a backdrop, this was a good idea as you can pick up a wide roller blind for about £20. Also most are wipe clean and the blackout type are thick and provide a good base and all can be wall mounted if required.

 

The disadvantage of a  standard shop roller blind is the length is only around 160cm, this is fine for Baby,Toddler and small child as you can have them sitting up standing up.

 

Here are some very quick image i took while setting up, (i did not have my camera to hand so used a Iphone). as you can see you will need to find the correct height and position where you do not get the blind starting to fold.

This is a good and cheap thing to try out if you are starting out in Portrait Photography.

Happy Worldwide Pinhole Photography Day

What is the Worldwide Pinhole Photography day?

This is an international event created to promote and celebrate the art of pinhole photography.On this unique day, we encourage people throughout the world

• to take some time off from the increasingly technological world we live in and to participate in the simple act of making a pinhole photograph.
• to share their visions and help spread the unusual beauty of this historical photographic process.

for more information visit here

To make a camera like below visit here for a step by step guide

DIY Softbox – Lamp Shades

Here is how i made my Lamp Shade Softboxes,

 

I started off with 2 cheap lamp shades which i got from Wilkinsons (house and Diy Store). these cost £4 each and where the biggest size and cheapest ones. These are a nice size with the large part measuring at 360mm.

The items i used where:

Lampshades x2

double sided tape

kitchen Foil

Frosted Plastic Sheet (thin white card would work also)

Cable Ties

 

I started by drawing the circle ends, for the large end i have done 2 for each shade, one having a cut out so i can take it in and out and add paper between to soften the  light more if needed.

Attach the small circles to the small end with Cable ties by making small holes in the plastic and the shade.

Draw round the flash head and cut out hole with a sharp knife.

 

next stick double sided tape in the inside of the shade, making sure that the tape goes close to the end to hold the foil in place.

Use the kitchen foil to line the inside of the shade. This makes the light bounce off all angles and gives a wider lighting area.

 

trim the extra foil with a knife, leave the metal rim free of foil as your plastic with clip in to this ring which will keep it in place.

 

i have used cable ties to keep the flash guns in place but something you can undo would work better allowing you to take the flash gun in and out of the softbox.

Add a wireless trigger system (these can be got for £10-£15 off Ebay or Amazon) and these work well, so if you want to have a go at studio photography put don’t want to spend lots at the start. Try this simple idea with some cheap SLR Flash Guns. You can then get a feel and also work out how best to use them.

 

 

 

How to Modify 120 Film for a 620 Film Camera

Recently i have bought some 620 film which is 120 film re-spooled on to a 620 film spool. This film is not cheap as it ranges from £5 to £6, when 120 can range from £3 to £5. so i found how to make 120 film fit. my problem was i needed a 620 spool to take the film. so here is how i reduced a 120 spool to fit a 620 camera. (this can be done with 120 film to us in a 620 camera).

So, what do you need?

• a 120 spool (a roll of unexposed 120 film on a plastic spool)
• a metal file, or coarse sandpaper
• sharp scissors (nail scissors are good)
• newspaper or something similar to protect your work space
• about half an hour of spare time

 

It helps if you have a 620 spool (your old camera might have a blank take-up spool still left in it!), just to give you have something to compare your modified 120 spool with, but it’s not critical.

Start by putting down newspaper (or something similar) to protect your work surface – filing down the plastic creates a lot of really fine plastic dust, and it can get pretty dusty and messy.

Take your roll of 120 film, and starting on the flat end of the spool, just start filing! I prefer using a metal file, because I feel like I have a bit more control about the pressure and direction of my filing, but course sandpaper will work fine too.

Once this flat end has been thinned out enough, take the nail scissors and trim around the edges of the spool. You can use your file or sandpaper on the edges. I believe that some 620 cameras like the Brownie Hawkeye won’t require this step, as they can accommodate wider spools, but most will.

 

Then turn the film over, and file and trim the other end of the spool! It only takes me about half an hour to finish modifying a 120 spool film.

 

Once you think the edges have been filed down enough, take the roll to the nearest sink or outside, and blow and brush away any of the plastic dust that is still clinging to the spool/film. Try to get as much of the dust off your roll – you don’t want any dust getting in the way of your photos (or maybe you do – it might create some interesting effects…)

Before you pack everything away, pop the modified film into your camera, and check that it turns freely and smoothly – you really don’t want to get two or three shots into your roll before you realise you haven’t filed the roll down far enough and it’s really too stiff to keep turning at all.

 

 

DIY: Photostrips

Photo strips are a simple and creative way to show your photos off.

I first pick out which photos you are going to use. You can try to make each strip have a “theme,” but I think that random ones would look just as good too.

In Photoshop, I made a “template” for the Photostrip.  I made the file 1.5 inches by 6 inches.  Because not every Instagram used the same filter (and subsequently frame), I also went ahead and made skinny strips of white for the borders.

Can you see the white borders?  I created a square and duplicated the shape so it maintained the same width.

Once I had the template for the border, I just placed four of the photos onto the file.  I arranged each so it was under the border and in an interesting order.

I repeated that process for the other strips and kept re-saving them.  I would just delete the pictures from before, add the new ones, and then click Save As.  Once all three strips were created, I made a new file.  This time, I made it 4.5 inches by 6.  I added all the other files into this one to I could be more efficient in the printing.  (You can definitely fit a lot more than three strips per page… Print landscape and add as many as you wish!)

The next step is to cut them in to separate the strips.

And there you go!  Fun photostrips!

What can you do with the photostrips?

Give away at parties

Use as bookmarks

Hang on the wall

Write notes on the back

Make for presents

Article Sourced from www.thecollegeprepster.com

Photo a Day Challenge (365)

I like to search the internet for helpful tips, money saving tips and things do do with your camera.

I have taken up the 365 challenge. If you don’t know what this is, its a challenge to take a photo each day of the year (365 of them). to make it easier and more challenging i have found month lists of topics/words that the photos need to include.

Its never to late to start this, i find it fun and it gets you thinking of how to make your image different. I have been using my Iphone to take them and  Instagram to post my photos as i always have it and instagram is quick and easy and give you effects which can help enhance the image.

The rule of thirds

I like to search the internet for helpful tips, money saving tips and things do do with your camera.

This month i have found this great tip and how to.

What on earth is this ‘rule of thirds’ you speak of?
The rule of thirds is a technique used by photographers to create balance in photos. By using the rule of thirds it’s quite pleasing on the eye and makes the composition more interesting.

Let me simplify it for you. Imagine your photo is broken up into nine little squares {see the image below}. Ideally you want to try to avoid cutting a photo in two by putting the object right in the middle. If I’d moved the building up to sit right smack-bang in the middle of the photo, it wouldn’t be as effective. For the composition to work it’s magic it is best if the focus of the photo {in this case the building} sits at the bottom third {as it does} or at the top third.

Confused? Don’t be. Here’s another example {below}. See how I’ve put the focus of the photo {in this case Lacey on her scooter} in the very right third of the photo. If I’d put her in the centre it just wouldn’t look as great composition-wise.

Take these two photos I took of the sunset over the weekend. I wanted to show how if I’d put the horizontal line in the photo, which is the skyline, in the middle it wouldn’t be as interesting visually. In the right-hand photo I’ve moved the skyline down into the bottom third and ta-dah, it’s much more pleasing. It works better, don’t you think?

It can be hard to imagine that grid in your photos when you’re taking them, especially when you’ve got a moving subject {ie little people!}. If you’re using an iPhone {and it’s upgraded to iOS 5} then you’ll see the grid on your screen as you take your photos. You can try and put the rule into action as you take your photos. Start by taking pics of things that don’t move – food, skylines, buildings etc for practice.

On a final note, this is just a guide. Taking photos and breaking this rule doesn’t mean you’ll end up with a bad photo! Experiment, use this rule sometimes, and sometimes break it.

Article Sourced from “fatmumslim.com.au”

35mm Images

Developing your own Images.

After a looking for ways to scan negative film and trying the different types. Uses a Scanner with a Negative slot/back lite panel is the best. it may not be the cheapest but it does give you the best results by far.

Im still looking for a cheap one to come available (i may have to visit a few car boots), but managed to borrow one to scan in my few films which have been sat awaiting to be used.

below is some of the first photos i have taken using 35mm for the first time in a while.

Box Brownie Images – using 35mm Film

Taken with a Brownie No:2

Taken with a Brownie No:2

Taken with a Brownie No:2

Taken with a Brownie No:2

Taken with a Brownie No:2

Taken with a Brownie No:2

Taken with a Brownie No:2

Taken with a Brownie No:2

SLR Images – Using 35mm Film

I Hope you all have a merry Christmas and a Happy New Year and will be back in the new year with lots more photos and tips!

My Modern Brownie

I have been collecting “Retro Cameras” for  about a year now. After remembering my love for good old film photography! The love for the while process of film and the “you don’t know what you’ll get until you see it” when developing. I found that the Box Brownie Cameras are such fun to play with and placing 35mm film in them gives them a new lease of life. Once i have taken my fun 35mm photos with my brownie i found a problem! how do you get the film back into the roll without exposing the film to light? I found a room with no windows and left the light off. This was not great as trying to wind it in the dark is not easy, so i had an idea of converting a brownie to take 35mm and so you can wind it back in the the container.

Retro Cameras are always a great find, and at car boot sales you can get a good bargain! At one of these sales i found my project peace. A 1920/30 Kodak Brownie no2a model B, this was in the best on conditions as the box outer was well worn and the shutter seem to stick.

I decided to make a complete new outer box for it so the only original parts would be where the film sat and the lens block and shutter mechanism. so i took it all apart taking photos along the way so i could refer to them when putting it back together.

I started by making the outer shell, mount board from your local craft store is good for this as its light and strong. I coved the inside with black paper to give it a bit more light proofing. An insert was needed to bridge the gap from the front to the main box, i also used mount board covered in black sugar paper.

once the front outer and the main box was complete and all windows cut out i purchased some sticky vinyl (you can get this from most craft or DIY stores). Carefully wrapping the mount board so you do not get creases and over lapping at the bottom of the camera so it will stay tight and stuck.

Most of the camera parts are unique so i cleaned them up and refitted to the new camera body.

A cool carry handle was added mostly for visuals purposes.

once most of the camera parts where added to the new shell, i made another hole in the inner film case so i could have two winders. The top one being for the the 35mm case so i can wind it back once the film was done. Two sponge mop clips where used for the winding handles (which matched the new box colour great).

The spindle winder i used a brass hook and crushed it to fit in the 120 film spindle slot. Then screwed it in to the mop clip. Also the holes for the clips where made round so making it possible to remove the clips when getting the film out of the casing.

The section which would hold the 35mm film would need a little modification. once the extra hole was created i measured the length the winding handle would need to go in to turn the film casing. A round peace of plastic and a peace made in to a fork was used to help turn the film casing.

The 120 film support came in handy to help keep the 35mm film in place. A plastic plug was used to also to help stop the film from moving out of position.

The front, i had this made from a scrap peace of aluminum, the holes where cut to the same as the original. being silver the light may bounce of the inside of the camera front so i sprayed it Mat Black to prevent this. I counter sank the screws so they would sit flush to the plate. Due to the Front being metal i had the problem of fixing the view finder lenses, so i used a small nut and bolt and counter sank the bolt head like i had done with the screws.

Once all the peaces where in place, i just added some stickers to give it the brownie look. and here is the finished camera!!

Now its done time to try it with a film in!! watch this space for the Photos.

If you do not want to re-create a brownie like above, i found a cool site which can give you ideas how to make your brownie look different – CLICK HERE

Using 35mm in a Kodak Brownie

The great this about film cameras is you can always get the most out of them as they last years! The Kodak Box Brownie is one of my favorite old cameras as they are very simple to use and mad very well. the only thing is the 120 or 127 film is expensive to buy and develop. so after searching the internet i found a way to convert your brownie to use 35mm with out damaging the classic camera.

all you need is a few house hold items and a 35mm film which you can still buy on the high street or online.

Below How to from “Classic Cameras” Blog

“Using some scrap film I measured how many holes corresponded to the length of the negative.
In the present case 11cm = 26 holes, including spacing.
Then I needed a way of counting them, the best way is by ear.
For that purpose I taped a ring, from one of those large plastic binding combs, to the film canister, in a way that the pointing end of the ring was in the path of the sprocket holes.
When one turns the advancing knob, the hole passes in the end of the ring and a loud click is heard, just count them.

The film: a Fujicolor 100 ISO, well expired.

I taped a generous piece of used film to the end of the film I was going to use, as a leader, placed the cartridge dead centre, under the metal flap, used to tension the 116 film, very handy in this case.
If your camera is different you may use pieces of Styrofoam, cardboard,… use your ingenuity.
Then I taped the film to the centre of the empty take-up 116 spool.

 

The film circuit was ready.

A very important step:

 

Cover the red window, on the back of the camera, with black gaffer tape, both inside and out, to avoid film fogging.

I closed the box advanced the 26 clicks of the length of the exposure and 20 more for safekeeping.”

Other Ways to modify

Kodak Brownie No2A from – “On The Process” Blog

 

Other Brownies to take 35mm

Kodak Brownie 127