Camera Day – Happy Snapping

here is no better day than Camera Day to snap some photos during your lunch hour, on your commute to work, or whenever a moment of inspiration strikes.

History of the Camera

Camera Obscura The first cameras were the “camera obscura” device dating back thousands of years to the Greeks and even the ancient Chinese. The device was much like a pinhole camera and often used to project an image which would be traced on paper. The first actual photograph was taken around 1814 when Nicephore Niepce used a paper coated with silver chloride and was able to record an exposure to light, but the photo wasn’t permanent. In 1827, he used a wooden camera made by Charles and Vincent Chevalier to make a more permanent photograph.Louis Deguerre worked with Joseph Nicephore Niepce to create the first real photographic camera and technique (Nicephore Niepce died before the invention was completed). In1836, the first true photograph was produced using a copper plate with silver and coated with iodine vapor. Later, other inventors began to perfect this technique and created more efficient and practical cameras using dry and wet plates, twin reflex lenses with faster shutters which shortened exposure times, and smaller, more portable cameras.

The first film cameras were introduced in 1885 by George Eastman and his newly formed Kodak company. At first, the film was a chemically coated paper, but in 1889, they began to use celluloid. Kodak also helped produce smaller, more affordable cameras. In 1900, they began to mass produce the “Brownie Box” camera which was very popular all the way up to the 1960s. The first 35mm camera was created around 1913, but wasn’t perfected and put into production until 1925. In the 1935, Kodak produced the first commercially viable color film. Since then, the 35mm camera has been changed and perfected with single reflex dominating over twin-reflex and cameras becoming easier and more compact to use. Many of the 35mm film cameras still used today haven’t changed much since the mid-1960s.

Though the elements of digital photography began in the late 60s/early 70s, it wasn’t perfected enough for mass use until late 80s/early 90s. Most of these cameras were low-resolution until after the mid-2000s when resolutions and digital lens technology began reach and succeed the level of quality similar to the 35mm camera.

Photo: 18th century Camera Obscura from Wikimedia Commons.

History article from: http://www.squidoo.com
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How to Modify 120 Film for a 620 Film Camera

Recently i have bought some 620 film which is 120 film re-spooled on to a 620 film spool. This film is not cheap as it ranges from £5 to £6, when 120 can range from £3 to £5. so i found how to make 120 film fit. my problem was i needed a 620 spool to take the film. so here is how i reduced a 120 spool to fit a 620 camera. (this can be done with 120 film to us in a 620 camera).

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So, what do you need?

  • a 120 spool (a roll of unexposed 120 film on a plastic spool)
  • a metal file, or coarse sandpaper
  • sharp scissors (nail scissors are good)
  • newspaper or something similar to protect your work space
  • about half an hour of spare time

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It helps if you have a 620 spool (your old camera might have a blank take-up spool still left in it!), just to give you have something to compare your modified 120 spool with, but it’s not critical.

Start by putting down newspaper (or something similar) to protect your work surface – filing down the plastic creates a lot of really fine plastic dust, and it can get pretty dusty and messy.

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Take your roll of 120 film, and starting on the flat end of the spool, just start filing! I prefer using a metal file, because I feel like I have a bit more control about the pressure and direction of my filing, but course sandpaper will work fine too.

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Once this flat end has been thinned out enough, take the nail scissors and trim around the edges of the spool. You can use your file or sandpaper on the edges. I believe that some 620 cameras like the Brownie Hawkeye won’t require this step, as they can accommodate wider spools, but most will.

 

Then turn the film over, and file and trim the other end of the spool! It only takes me about half an hour to finish modifying a 120 spool film.

 

Once you think the edges have been filed down enough, take the roll to the nearest sink or outside, and blow and brush away any of the plastic dust that is still clinging to the spool/film. Try to get as much of the dust off your roll – you don’t want any dust getting in the way of your photos (or maybe you do – it might create some interesting effects…)

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Before you pack everything away, pop the modified film into your camera, and check that it turns freely and smoothly – you really don’t want to get two or three shots into your roll before you realise you haven’t filed the roll down far enough and it’s really too stiff to keep turning at all.

 

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Types of Camera Film

135 (35mm) Film

The term 135 (ISO 1007) was introduced by Kodak in 1934[1] as a designation for the cassette for 35 mm film, specifically for still photography. It quickly grew in popularity, surpassing 120 film by the late 1960s to become the most popular photographic film size. Despite competition from formats such as 828, 126, 110, and APS, it remains so today.

135 (35mm) Film for sale – Local Photo Shop, Discount Store (£1 Shops), Supermarkets & eBay sites (good for out of date film which can give cool effects)

135 (35mm) Processing – Local Photo Shop, Photo Websites & Supermarkets (this can be the cheapest processing)

 

APS Film

Advanced Photo System (APS) is a now discontinued film format for still photography first produced in 1996. It was marketed by Eastman Kodak under the brand name Advantix, by FujiFilm under the name Nexia, by AgfaPhoto under the name Futura and by Konica as Centuria.

APS Film for sale –  eBay sites (good for out of date film which can give cool effects)

APS Film Processing – Local Photo Shop, Photo Websites & Supermarkets (this can be the cheapest processing) or Revive Studios

 

 

110 Film

110 is a cartridge-based film format used in still photography. It was introduced by Kodak in 1972. 110 is essentially a miniaturised version of Kodak’s earlier 126 film format. Each frame is 13 mm × 17 mm (0.51 in × 0.67 in), with one registration hole.

The film is fully housed in a plastic cartridge, which also registers the image when the film is advanced. There is a continuous backing paper, and the frame number and film type are visible through a window at the rear of the cartridge. The film does not need to be rewound and is very simple to load and unload. It is pre-exposed with frame lines and numbers, a feature intended to make it easier and more efficient for photofinishers to print.

Unlike later competing formats, such as disc and APS film, processed 110 negatives were returned in strips, without the original cartridge.

110 Film for sale – Fuji Digital Imaging Service Or eBay sites (good for out of date film which can give cool effects)

110 Film Processing – Fuji Digital Imaging Service

 

126 Film

126 is the number given to a cartridge-based film format used in still photography. It was introduced by Kodak in 1963, and is associated mainly with low-end point-and-shoot cameras, particularly Kodak’s own Instamatic series of cameras.

Although 126 was once very popular, as of 2008 it is no longer manufactured, and few photofinishers will process it.

126 Film for sale – Fuji Digital Imaging Service or eBay sites (good for out of date film which can give cool effects)

126 Film Processing – Fuji Digital Imaging Service

 

127 Film

127 is a roll film format for still photography introduced by Kodak in 1912.

The film itself is 46mm wide, placing it between 35mm and 120 “medium format” films in terms of size.[1] The image format normally used is a square 4×4 cm. However, rectangular 4×3 cm and 4×6 cm are also standard.

127 enjoyed mainstream popularity until its usage began to decline from the 1960s onwards in the face of newer, cartridge-based films.[2] However, as of 2013 it survives as a niche format.

127 Film for sale – Photo Supplies UK , Fuji Digital Imaging Service or eBay sites (good for out of date film which can give cool effects)

127 Film Processing – Photo Supplies UK or Fuji Digital Imaging Service

 

120 Film

120 is a popular film format for still photography introduced by Kodak for their Brownie No. 2 in 1901. It was originally intended for amateur photography but was later superseded in this role by 135 film. 120 film and its close relative, 220 film, survive to this day as the only medium format films that are readily available to both professionals and amateur enthusiasts.

120 Film for sale – Photo Supplies UK or eBay sites (good for out of date film which can give cool effects)

120 Film Processing – Photo Supplies UK

A new Member to my collection

Coronet Rapide folding camera

Coronet was a British camera maker and it has produced lot of various models, but only four of them where folding: Coronet, Coronet Rapide, Coronet Clipper and Coronet Rex.

The Rapide has fixed f/11 aperture, fixed focus (From my experience everything is in focus from 5 foots) and the only thing you can change is shutter speed, it has two modes: time – for night shooting (same like B ) and instant mode (which i guess is between 1/60s and 1/125s ).

 

How Film Works

Here is a very very basic rundown of what film is, in general, for those of you who are curious or interested in understanding more about chemical composition in photography. I will say that once you have a solid grasp of how paper and film are made and the chemicals used to develop them, it’s easy to venture off into the world of alternative processing… which is super fun. I’ll go more in depth later about alternative processing (personally I have always wanted to do albumen prints but have never had a darkroom to myself where I could) but for now let’s start with the 101 of how film works:Film is composed of layers. Many layers. These are different for color, slide, black and white, and instant film but all contain millions of light-sensitive silver halide crystals (what we call grain) that you expose when you pop the shutter. While the other layers are crucial, for our purposes we will be looking at the light sensitive layers. Color film has three layers of silver halide: red, blue, and green.

Slide film has a few more layers than C-41:

Black and white paper is what we call “orthochromatic” which is basically a fancy word for “red blind.” This is why you can print black and white in a darkroom with the redlight on, allowing for minimal vision, whereas when printing color you must remain in total darkness. Very weird, and kind of fun. Technically you can still buy orthochromatic black and white film, but it’s not very common. Most black and white film today is panchromatic, which means it is sensitive to all colors of the visible light spectrum. The layer composition of black and white film is simpler:

You’ll notice they all have what we call an “antihalation” coating or layer, which is basically applied to the back layer to absorb stray reflecting light from the film emulsion.

So basically, that sums up how film absorbs light… um, for beginners.

Article Sourced from “i still shoot film”

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Retro camera buying tips

The Weekend is Nearly here So, why not go out and see what  film cameras you can buy… you may think that they are no longer manufactured, but you would be mistaken. Fuji, Leica and Hasselblad are just a few of the companies that still manufacture film cameras.

Now is the perfect time to pick up as many film cameras as possible, while people are upgrading to digital and 35mm isn’t old enough to be considered “antique.” And you can still get film at a fairly cheap price. You would be surprised how often you can find great film cameras for a couple of pounds.

Purchasing used and vintage film cameras may seem intimidating if you are not familiar with them, but it’s actually easier than you think. First you have to remember: if you don’t buy the camera from a dealer or shop, there’s always a risk of something being wrong with it, even if it looks perfect. That’s a chance you’ll have to be willing to take. But let’s consider these important points:

First, ALWAYS stop at charity shops. No matter where you are. People give lots of things to these shops and you can always find a gem within the rubbish.

If a camera is less than fiver and it’s not in poor condition, buy it. You can always take it apart and use the pieces for a super cool camera hack or even just display them as a lot of my cameras are just cool display peaces.

The best place to find retro/vintage cameras are at Car Boot Sales. GET THERE AS EARLY AS POSSIBLE. Seriously, the best chance of getting some great bargain cameras is early morning around 7/7.30am. You do have to keep your eyes pealed as sellers do not show off them off at the best of times.

When you are considering buying a camera, start by looking at the body. Normal wear and tear is no biggie but these are the things you should look for in a working camera:

  • A smooth shutter advance
  • A back that fully opens and closes
  • Shutter pops at all speeds (open up the body and watch the shutter pop to make sure, I usually pop the shutter at least 10 times to verify it’s working properly)
  • You can easily slide the aperture ring
  • You can easily adjust the shutter speed without the dial getting stuck

On top of these, it is also important that:

  • The interior of the body has no mold or fungus
  • The lens is free of mold and fungus (very small spots on the lens are okay – they’ll give your photos a vintage touch, but if you look through the lens and it’s cloudy, blotchy or you can clearly see foreign matter, it’s a no-go.)

On another note, beware of people selling their cameras for over £50, and even at £50 it should be a kit with multiple lenses or extra accessories and a big name like canon or Nikon. If someone tells you their camera is worth X amount and they’re not willing to bargain, walk away. *Obviously, this does not apply if you come across a magical suitcase of medium format Mamiyas or something glorious like that.* This also apples to Ebay as you will always pay more on sites like this as people believe they are worth something.

These are the main things that I have looked for and it hasn’t failed me yet. You can also get great deals by buying a body with a damaged lens and then a damaged body with a clean lens and swapping the two (obviously they need to be the same model, but it’s easier to find than you think).

That being said, I now release you into the wild to buy your own vintage cameras. Feel free to submit any gems you find

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New Budget Retro Camera – Holga

Holga cameras have been around since 1982 and these fun toy cameras create a unique picture with every shot.

Due to the camera being so cheap you will not get perfect photos due to its lack of precision and light leaks.

These are a great cheap camera which you can have a lot of fun with, also they do lots of different lenses and other accessories  and not just for there own cameras they also produce lenses for some of the big brand cameras (Canon, Sony, Nikon etc.) for film and digital cameras.

These cameras are available from Online retailers such as “instant film direct” , “holga direct” and also Ebay

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Love Capturing Memories, Love Old Film

Welcome to Retro Cameras, this Blog/Website is here to help and show that the love and fun still has not gone out from using good Old Film cameras. All the information and stories are here for all age ranges and also for any experience! So if you have never picked up a film camera before or a pro at them i hope you will find some or all the information handy.

This Blog is not just for me to tell you about things, I would love to hear from you about your problems, Loves and tricks when using classic cameras. I will also like to help Sell and Buy your unwanted cameras. Simply email me a Photo and any information you have and the price you are after and we will see what we can do by placing it on this blog!

Most of this information on this blog has been put together from different articles  and forums so you should be able to find all the information you need in one place. if you do have a story or any useful information please email me.

 

I hope you enjoy what we have so far and look forward to hearing form you.

 

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