Camera Day – Happy Snapping

here is no better day than Camera Day to snap some photos during your lunch hour, on your commute to work, or whenever a moment of inspiration strikes.

History of the Camera

The first cameras were the “camera obscura” device dating back thousands of years to the Greeks and even the ancient Chinese. The device was much like a pinhole camera and often used to project an image which would be traced on paper. The first actual photograph was taken around 1814 when Nicephore Niepce used a paper coated with silver chloride and was able to record an exposure to light, but the photo wasn’t permanent. In 1827, he used a wooden camera made by Charles and Vincent Chevalier to make a more permanent photograph.Louis Deguerre worked with Joseph Nicephore Niepce to create the first real photographic camera and technique (Nicephore Niepce died before the invention was completed). In1836, the first true photograph was produced using a copper plate with silver and coated with iodine vapor. Later, other inventors began to perfect this technique and created more efficient and practical cameras using dry and wet plates, twin reflex lenses with faster shutters which shortened exposure times, and smaller, more portable cameras.

The first film cameras were introduced in 1885 by George Eastman and his newly formed Kodak company. At first, the film was a chemically coated paper, but in 1889, they began to use celluloid. Kodak also helped produce smaller, more affordable cameras. In 1900, they began to mass produce the “Brownie Box” camera which was very popular all the way up to the 1960s. The first 35mm camera was created around 1913, but wasn’t perfected and put into production until 1925. In the 1935, Kodak produced the first commercially viable color film. Since then, the 35mm camera has been changed and perfected with single reflex dominating over twin-reflex and cameras becoming easier and more compact to use. Many of the 35mm film cameras still used today haven’t changed much since the mid-1960s.

Though the elements of digital photography began in the late 60s/early 70s, it wasn’t perfected enough for mass use until late 80s/early 90s. Most of these cameras were low-resolution until after the mid-2000s when resolutions and digital lens technology began reach and succeed the level of quality similar to the 35mm camera.

Photo: 18th century Camera Obscura from Wikimedia Commons.

History article from: http://www.squidoo.com

Happy Worldwide Pinhole Photography Day

What is the Worldwide Pinhole Photography day?

This is an international event created to promote and celebrate the art of pinhole photography.On this unique day, we encourage people throughout the world

• to take some time off from the increasingly technological world we live in and to participate in the simple act of making a pinhole photograph.
• to share their visions and help spread the unusual beauty of this historical photographic process.

for more information visit here

To make a camera like below visit here for a step by step guide

35mm Images

Developing your own Images.

After a looking for ways to scan negative film and trying the different types. Uses a Scanner with a Negative slot/back lite panel is the best. it may not be the cheapest but it does give you the best results by far.

Im still looking for a cheap one to come available (i may have to visit a few car boots), but managed to borrow one to scan in my few films which have been sat awaiting to be used.

below is some of the first photos i have taken using 35mm for the first time in a while.

Box Brownie Images – using 35mm Film

Taken with a Brownie No:2

Taken with a Brownie No:2

Taken with a Brownie No:2

Taken with a Brownie No:2

Taken with a Brownie No:2

Taken with a Brownie No:2

Taken with a Brownie No:2

Taken with a Brownie No:2

SLR Images – Using 35mm Film

I Hope you all have a merry Christmas and a Happy New Year and will be back in the new year with lots more photos and tips!

Types of Camera Film

135 (35mm) Film

The term 135 (ISO 1007) was introduced by Kodak in 1934^[1] as a designation for the cassette for 35 mm film, specifically for still photography. It quickly grew in popularity, surpassing 120 film by the late 1960s to become the most popular photographic film size. Despite competition from formats such as 828, 126, 110, and APS, it remains so today.

135 (35mm) Film for sale – Local Photo Shop, Discount Store (£1 Shops), Supermarkets & eBay sites (good for out of date film which can give cool effects)

135 (35mm) Processing – Local Photo Shop, Photo Websites & Supermarkets (this can be the cheapest processing)

 

APS Film

Advanced Photo System (APS) is a now discontinued film format for still photography first produced in 1996. It was marketed by Eastman Kodak under the brand name Advantix, by FujiFilm under the name Nexia, by AgfaPhoto under the name Futura and by Konica as Centuria.

APS Film for sale –  eBay sites (good for out of date film which can give cool effects)

APS Film Processing – Local Photo Shop, Photo Websites & Supermarkets (this can be the cheapest processing) or Revive Studios

 

 

110 Film

110 is a cartridge-based film format used in still photography. It was introduced by Kodak in 1972. 110 is essentially a miniaturised version of Kodak’s earlier 126 film format. Each frame is 13 mm × 17 mm (0.51 in × 0.67 in), with one registration hole.

The film is fully housed in a plastic cartridge, which also registers the image when the film is advanced. There is a continuous backing paper, and the frame number and film type are visible through a window at the rear of the cartridge. The film does not need to be rewound and is very simple to load and unload. It is pre-exposed with frame lines and numbers, a feature intended to make it easier and more efficient for photofinishers to print.

Unlike later competing formats, such as disc and APS film, processed 110 negatives were returned in strips, without the original cartridge.

110 Film for sale – Fuji Digital Imaging Service Or eBay sites (good for out of date film which can give cool effects)

110 Film Processing – Fuji Digital Imaging Service

 

126 Film

126 is the number given to a cartridge-based film format used in still photography. It was introduced by Kodak in 1963, and is associated mainly with low-end point-and-shoot cameras, particularly Kodak’s own Instamatic series of cameras.

Although 126 was once very popular, as of 2008 it is no longer manufactured, and few photofinishers will process it.

126 Film for sale – Fuji Digital Imaging Service or eBay sites (good for out of date film which can give cool effects)

126 Film Processing – Fuji Digital Imaging Service

 

127 Film

127 is a roll film format for still photography introduced by Kodak in 1912.

The film itself is 46mm wide, placing it between 35mm and 120 “medium format” films in terms of size.^[1] The image format normally used is a square 4×4 cm. However, rectangular 4×3 cm and 4×6 cm are also standard.

127 enjoyed mainstream popularity until its usage began to decline from the 1960s onwards in the face of newer, cartridge-based films.^[2] However, as of 2013 it survives as a niche format.

127 Film for sale – Photo Supplies UK , Fuji Digital Imaging Service or eBay sites (good for out of date film which can give cool effects)

127 Film Processing – Photo Supplies UK or Fuji Digital Imaging Service

 

120 Film

120 is a popular film format for still photography introduced by Kodak for their Brownie No. 2 in 1901. It was originally intended for amateur photography but was later superseded in this role by 135 film. 120 film and its close relative, 220 film, survive to this day as the only medium format films that are readily available to both professionals and amateur enthusiasts.

120 Film for sale – Photo Supplies UK or eBay sites (good for out of date film which can give cool effects)

120 Film Processing – Photo Supplies UK

How to Solve Common Exposure Problems

In film photography, there may be nothing more disappointing than shooting an entire roll of film, spending the time to develop it, and then realizing that the images didn’t turn out as expected. Here are a few common exposure problems and some tips to resolve them for the next shoot.

Negative is too light overall, resulting in a print too dark

When film negatives are too light, it likely means it was underexposed. The film speed may have been set too high, shutter speed was too fast, the aperture was too small, or possibly all of the above. It is also possible that the film received less development than necessary in the darkroom. The best way to avoid this problem in the future is to carefully review your film speed and ensure all camera controls are properly set. If rolls of film are frequently underexposed your light meter may also be inaccurate.

Negative is too dark overall, resulting in a print too light

When film negatives are too dark, it likely means it was overexposed. Film speed may have been set too low, shutter speed too slow, or the aperture too wide, or maybe all of the above. It is also possible that the film received too much development time. Again, the best way to avoid this problem is to carefully review all camera settings, including film speed, shutter speed, and aperture. If entire rolls of film are commonly overexposed your light meter may also be inaccurate.

Bright scene is too dark

Common with winter photography or when a scene is too bright overall, the light meter will average all tones for an average mid-gray tone. The problem is that this will turn any bright scene darker. To compensate for this, open the aperture one or two f-stops to overexpose the scene. Learn more about exposing in snow and bright scenes in winter photography tips and techniques.

Subject is too dark against a lighter background

If the subject is backlit by a light source, your light meter may be overly influenced by the background and underexpose the subject. To correct this, move the light meter closure to the subject, measure, set your shutter speed and aperture, then step back into position to take the photograph. Learn more about photographing backlit subjects in exposing for backlighting.

No picture is present but film frame numbers appear

If the entire roll is blank but the film frame numbers are visible then it likely did not catch on the film advance reel. If just a few frames are blank then the lens cap may have been on or the shutter may have failed to open. To ensure that the film is advancing, check that the rewind lever rotates when you advance the film or the frame counter advances. You can also check shutter functionality by opening the back of the camera and pressing the shutter release

No picture is present and no film frame numbers appear

If no frame numbers appear, there was a problem during the film development or it was not developed at all. It is also possible that the film was exposed to light prior to being developed. Review film processing to make sure the necessary steps were completed.

Double or multiple exposures

If images on the negative overlap over the entire roll, you may have accidentally put the same roll of film through the camera. To avoid this, simply be sure to mark film that has been exposed. If images overlap on just one or a few frames, the film did not advance properly. There is a slight possibility that this results from the photographer failing to advance the film a full frame between exposures. But if it commonly happens have the film advance mechanisms checked.

I hope this will help you understand and to get the best out of your Retro Camera

My Modern Brownie

I have been collecting “Retro Cameras” for  about a year now. After remembering my love for good old film photography! The love for the while process of film and the “you don’t know what you’ll get until you see it” when developing. I found that the Box Brownie Cameras are such fun to play with and placing 35mm film in them gives them a new lease of life. Once i have taken my fun 35mm photos with my brownie i found a problem! how do you get the film back into the roll without exposing the film to light? I found a room with no windows and left the light off. This was not great as trying to wind it in the dark is not easy, so i had an idea of converting a brownie to take 35mm and so you can wind it back in the the container.

Retro Cameras are always a great find, and at car boot sales you can get a good bargain! At one of these sales i found my project peace. A 1920/30 Kodak Brownie no2a model B, this was in the best on conditions as the box outer was well worn and the shutter seem to stick.

I decided to make a complete new outer box for it so the only original parts would be where the film sat and the lens block and shutter mechanism. so i took it all apart taking photos along the way so i could refer to them when putting it back together.

I started by making the outer shell, mount board from your local craft store is good for this as its light and strong. I coved the inside with black paper to give it a bit more light proofing. An insert was needed to bridge the gap from the front to the main box, i also used mount board covered in black sugar paper.

once the front outer and the main box was complete and all windows cut out i purchased some sticky vinyl (you can get this from most craft or DIY stores). Carefully wrapping the mount board so you do not get creases and over lapping at the bottom of the camera so it will stay tight and stuck.

Most of the camera parts are unique so i cleaned them up and refitted to the new camera body.

A cool carry handle was added mostly for visuals purposes.

once most of the camera parts where added to the new shell, i made another hole in the inner film case so i could have two winders. The top one being for the the 35mm case so i can wind it back once the film was done. Two sponge mop clips where used for the winding handles (which matched the new box colour great).

The spindle winder i used a brass hook and crushed it to fit in the 120 film spindle slot. Then screwed it in to the mop clip. Also the holes for the clips where made round so making it possible to remove the clips when getting the film out of the casing.

The section which would hold the 35mm film would need a little modification. once the extra hole was created i measured the length the winding handle would need to go in to turn the film casing. A round peace of plastic and a peace made in to a fork was used to help turn the film casing.

The 120 film support came in handy to help keep the 35mm film in place. A plastic plug was used to also to help stop the film from moving out of position.

The front, i had this made from a scrap peace of aluminum, the holes where cut to the same as the original. being silver the light may bounce of the inside of the camera front so i sprayed it Mat Black to prevent this. I counter sank the screws so they would sit flush to the plate. Due to the Front being metal i had the problem of fixing the view finder lenses, so i used a small nut and bolt and counter sank the bolt head like i had done with the screws.

Once all the peaces where in place, i just added some stickers to give it the brownie look. and here is the finished camera!!

Now its done time to try it with a film in!! watch this space for the Photos.

If you do not want to re-create a brownie like above, i found a cool site which can give you ideas how to make your brownie look different – CLICK HERE

How Film Works

Here is a very very basic rundown of what film is, in general, for those of you who are curious or interested in understanding more about chemical composition in photography. I will say that once you have a solid grasp of how paper and film are made and the chemicals used to develop them, it’s easy to venture off into the world of alternative processing… which is super fun. I’ll go more in depth later about alternative processing (personally I have always wanted to do albumen prints but have never had a darkroom to myself where I could) but for now let’s start with the 101 of how film works:Film is composed of layers. Many layers. These are different for color, slide, black and white, and instant film but all contain millions of light-sensitive silver halide crystals (what we call grain) that you expose when you pop the shutter. While the other layers are crucial, for our purposes we will be looking at the light sensitive layers. Color film has three layers of silver halide: red, blue, and green.

Slide film has a few more layers than C-41:

Black and white paper is what we call “orthochromatic” which is basically a fancy word for “red blind.” This is why you can print black and white in a darkroom with the redlight on, allowing for minimal vision, whereas when printing color you must remain in total darkness. Very weird, and kind of fun. Technically you can still buy orthochromatic black and white film, but it’s not very common. Most black and white film today is panchromatic, which means it is sensitive to all colors of the visible light spectrum. The layer composition of black and white film is simpler:

You’ll notice they all have what we call an “antihalation” coating or layer, which is basically applied to the back layer to absorb stray reflecting light from the film emulsion.

So basically, that sums up how film absorbs light… um, for beginners.

Article Sourced from “i still shoot film”

Retro camera buying tips

The Weekend is Nearly here So, why not go out and see what  film cameras you can buy… you may think that they are no longer manufactured, but you would be mistaken. Fuji, Leica and Hasselblad are just a few of the companies that still manufacture film cameras.

Now is the perfect time to pick up as many film cameras as possible, while people are upgrading to digital and 35mm isn’t old enough to be considered “antique.” And you can still get film at a fairly cheap price. You would be surprised how often you can find great film cameras for a couple of pounds.

Purchasing used and vintage film cameras may seem intimidating if you are not familiar with them, but it’s actually easier than you think. First you have to remember: if you don’t buy the camera from a dealer or shop, there’s always a risk of something being wrong with it, even if it looks perfect. That’s a chance you’ll have to be willing to take. But let’s consider these important points:

First, ALWAYS stop at charity shops. No matter where you are. People give lots of things to these shops and you can always find a gem within the rubbish.

If a camera is less than fiver and it’s not in poor condition, buy it. You can always take it apart and use the pieces for a super cool camera hack or even just display them as a lot of my cameras are just cool display peaces.

The best place to find retro/vintage cameras are at Car Boot Sales. GET THERE AS EARLY AS POSSIBLE. Seriously, the best chance of getting some great bargain cameras is early morning around 7/7.30am. You do have to keep your eyes pealed as sellers do not show off them off at the best of times.

When you are considering buying a camera, start by looking at the body. Normal wear and tear is no biggie but these are the things you should look for in a working camera:

• A smooth shutter advance
• A back that fully opens and closes
• Shutter pops at all speeds (open up the body and watch the shutter pop to make sure, I usually pop the shutter at least 10 times to verify it’s working properly)
• You can easily slide the aperture ring
• You can easily adjust the shutter speed without the dial getting stuck

On top of these, it is also important that:

• The interior of the body has no mold or fungus

• The lens is free of mold and fungus (very small spots on the lens are okay – they’ll give your photos a vintage touch, but if you look through the lens and it’s cloudy, blotchy or you can clearly see foreign matter, it’s a no-go.)

On another note, beware of people selling their cameras for over £50, and even at £50 it should be a kit with multiple lenses or extra accessories and a big name like canon or Nikon. If someone tells you their camera is worth X amount and they’re not willing to bargain, walk away. *Obviously, this does not apply if you come across a magical suitcase of medium format Mamiyas or something glorious like that.* This also apples to Ebay as you will always pay more on sites like this as people believe they are worth something.

These are the main things that I have looked for and it hasn’t failed me yet. You can also get great deals by buying a body with a damaged lens and then a damaged body with a clean lens and swapping the two (obviously they need to be the same model, but it’s easier to find than you think).

That being said, I now release you into the wild to buy your own vintage cameras. Feel free to submit any gems you find

New Budget Retro Camera – Holga

Holga cameras have been around since 1982 and these fun toy cameras create a unique picture with every shot.

Due to the camera being so cheap you will not get perfect photos due to its lack of precision and light leaks.

These are a great cheap camera which you can have a lot of fun with, also they do lots of different lenses and other accessories  and not just for there own cameras they also produce lenses for some of the big brand cameras (Canon, Sony, Nikon etc.) for film and digital cameras.

These cameras are available from Online retailers such as “instant film direct” , “holga direct” and also Ebay

Using 35mm in a Kodak Brownie

The great this about film cameras is you can always get the most out of them as they last years! The Kodak Box Brownie is one of my favorite old cameras as they are very simple to use and mad very well. the only thing is the 120 or 127 film is expensive to buy and develop. so after searching the internet i found a way to convert your brownie to use 35mm with out damaging the classic camera.

all you need is a few house hold items and a 35mm film which you can still buy on the high street or online.

Below How to from “Classic Cameras” Blog

“Using some scrap film I measured how many holes corresponded to the length of the negative.
In the present case 11cm = 26 holes, including spacing.
Then I needed a way of counting them, the best way is by ear.
For that purpose I taped a ring, from one of those large plastic binding combs, to the film canister, in a way that the pointing end of the ring was in the path of the sprocket holes.
When one turns the advancing knob, the hole passes in the end of the ring and a loud click is heard, just count them.

The film: a Fujicolor 100 ISO, well expired.

I taped a generous piece of used film to the end of the film I was going to use, as a leader, placed the cartridge dead centre, under the metal flap, used to tension the 116 film, very handy in this case.
If your camera is different you may use pieces of Styrofoam, cardboard,… use your ingenuity.
Then I taped the film to the centre of the empty take-up 116 spool.

 

The film circuit was ready.

A very important step:

 

Cover the red window, on the back of the camera, with black gaffer tape, both inside and out, to avoid film fogging.

I closed the box advanced the 26 clicks of the length of the exposure and 20 more for safekeeping.”

Other Ways to modify

Kodak Brownie No2A from – “On The Process” Blog

 

Other Brownies to take 35mm

Kodak Brownie 127